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http://www.archive.org/details/childsfoodgardenOOkilprich 


SCHOOL  GARDEN  SERIES 

Edited  by 
John  W.  Ritchie 

.  T 

The  Child's 
Food  Garden 

WITH  A  FEW  SUGGESTIONS  FOR 
FLOWER  CULTURE 

by 

Van  Evrie  Kilpatrick 

Principal  of  the 

Carlisle  School^  New  Tork  City 

and  assigned  to  supervision  of 

School  and  Home  Gardens 

President  of  the 

School  Garden  Association 

of  America 


1918 

World  Book  Company 

Yonkers-on- Hudson,  New  York 


.WORLD    BOOK    COMPANY 

THE    HOUSE    OF    APPLIED    KNOWLEDGE 
Established,  1905,  by  Caspar  W.  Hodgson 

YONKERS-ON-HUDSON,    NeW   YoRK  j       t^  ^^D  3 

2126    Prairie   Avenue,   Chicago        ^   ^^ 

The  purpose  of  this  house  is  to  assist  in 
applying  the  world's  knowledge  to  the  solu- 
tion of  the  world's  problems  by  the  publica- 
tion of  school  texts  that  will  meet  existing 
needs.  At  this  time,  when  food  production 
and  conservation  are  of  such  vital  impor- 
tance, editor  and  publisher  have  a  particular 
pleasure  in  offering  for  use  in  the  elemen- 
tary schools  The  Child's  Food  Garden^  and  in 
announcing  that  other  volumes  to  complete 
a  School  Garden  Series  will  follow 


EDUCATION  DEFTc 


SGS:    KCFG-I 


Copyright,  191 8,  by  World  Book  Company 

Copyright  in  Great  Britain 

All  rights  reserved 


Preface 

Every  boy  and  every  girl  who  has  a  garden  at  home,  or 
who  is  given  a  plot  in  a  school  garden,  ought  to  learn  to 
do  the  work  successfully.  Yet,  as  the  author  has  found, 
children,  especially  those  who  live  in  cities  and  towns,  know 
little  or  nothing  about  producing  anything  from  the  soil, 
and  since  the  teacher  cannot  always  be  present  to  direct 
the  work,  there  is  danger  that  discouraging  mistakes  will 
be  made.  For  these  reasons  it  seems  that  a  simple  printed 
guide  to  make  clear  the  first  steps  may  be  of  the  greatest 
help,  especially  when  the  work  is  done  at  home. 

The  author  has  therefore  tried  to  tell  the  garden  story 
in  a  very  simple  manner,  knowing  that  when  once  started 
in  the  right  way  the  young  gardener  will  go  on  with  ever 
increasing  interest  and  success.  The  attempt  has  been 
made  to  write  a  true  beginner's  book,  with  directions  so 
clear  and  definite  that  any  child  who  can  read  can  under- 
stand them.  Numerous  illustrations  have  been  provided, 
because  these  add  interest  to  the  work  and  help  to  make 
plain  how  it  is  to  be  done. 

The  importance  of  encouraging  our  children  in  outdoor 
work  with  living  plants  is  now  recognized.  It  benefits  the 
health,  broadens  the  education,  and  gives  a  valuable  train- 
ing in  industry  and  thrift.  The  great  garden  movement  is 
sweeping  over  all  America,  and  our  present  problem  is  to 
direct  it  and  make  it  most  profitable  to  the  children  in  our 
schools  and  homes.  It  is  hoped  that  this  book  will  prove 
useful  to  children  who  have  gardens  of  their  own,  to  schools 
that  are  engaged  in  garden  work,  and  to  mothers'  clubs 
and  other  organizations  that  have  become  interested  in 
garden  work. 

[3] 

543617 


Acknowledgments 

For  helpful  suggestions  in  the  preparation  of  this  little 
text'the  author  is  under  obligation  to  Dr.  C.  P.  Close  and 
Professor  W.  J.  Spillman  of  the  United  States  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture,  and  to  various  friends  who  are  inter- 
ested in  the  school  garden  work. 


[4] 


Contents 

I.  THE   GARDEN 

PAGE 

Making  Ready          . 7 

Making  the  Garden  Plan      . 8 

Planning  for  Successive  Crops 9 

Tools 10 

Fertilizing  the  Soil 11 

Spading .        .12 

Seeds  and  Planting  Depths 13 

Planting 14 

Cultivating 16 

Watering  .        .        .        . 17 

Thinning 18 

Transplanting 19 

Harvesting  and  Marketing 20 

Accounting 21 

Keeping  Vegetable  Matter  in  the  Soil      .        .        .        .22 

11.  VEGETABLES 

Radishes 23 

Lettuce 24 

Beans .25 

Corn 26 

Beets 27 

Tomatoes   . 28 

Cabbage 29 

Cucumbers 30 

Other  Vegetables    .        . 31 

III.    FLOWERS 

Sweet  Alyssum .        •        *  33 

Nasturtium 34 

Other  Flowers 35 

[5] 


IV.     THE   SEASONS 

PAGE 

January  —  Seed  Testing         .        .        .        ,        .        .        .37 

February  —  Flats 38 

March  —  Hot  Beds 39 

April  —  Cold  Frames       ........    40 

May  —  The  Flower 41 

June  —  Succession  and  Companion  Cropping       .        .        .42 

July  —  Plant  Supports 43 

August  —  Strawberries 44 

September  —  Growing  Bulbs  in  Water        .        .        .        -45 

October  —  Planting  Bulbs  Outdoors 46 

November  --  Mulching  for  Winter 47 

December  —  Taking  Stock 48 

V.     PRESERVING   VEGETABLES  AND    FRUITS 

Canning 49 

Drying .51 

Storage 53 

VI.     PLANT   ENEMIES  AND    FRIENDS 

Plant  Enemies 54 

Plant  Friends  .        .        . 56 

APPENDIX 

Questions  .        .        . 58 

Frost  Map  for  Spring     .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .60 

Frost  Map  for  Autumn 61 

Planting  Table  of  Common  Garden  Vegetables  .  .  62 
Planting  Table  of  Common  Flowering  Plants  .  .  .63 
Canning  and  Drying  Table 64 


[6] 


I.   The  Garden 


MAKING  READY 


When  the  spring  sunshine  falls  warm  on  the  earth  and 
we  hear  the  robins  singing  in  the  trees,  the  time  for  garden- 
ing has  come. 

Select  for  your  garden  a  place  that  will  receive  as  much 
sunshine  as  possible.  It  is  not  worth  while  to  try  to  make 
a  garden  where  the  sun  does  not  shine  for  at  least  three  hours 
each  day,  and  few  vegetables  can  be  grown  successfully 
without  five  or  six  hours  of  sunshine  daily. 

The  soil  should  be  rich  and  well  drained.  A  spot  where 
water  stands  on  the  ground  is  not  suitable  for  a  garden. 

For  the  first  season  your  garden  should  not  be  too  large. 
200  square  feet  is  enough.  10  by  20  feet  will  make  you  a 
good  garden  plot. 

Now  clean  up  all  the  rubbish  that  may  lie  upon  your 
patch.  Burn  dry  leaves,  weeds,  and  grass  on  the  garden. 
The  ashes  will  enrich  the  soil. 

[7] 


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MAKING  THE   GARDEN  PLAN 

Get  a  piece  of  drawing  paper  8  by  12  inches,  a  lead  pencil, 
and  a  foot  rule. 

Let  every  half  inch  on  your  rule  stand  for  a  foot  in  your 
garden.  Your  garden  is  20  feet  by  10  feet ;  so  draw  your 
plan  20  half  inches  by  10  half  inches. 

If  your  garden  is  level,  run  the  rows  north  and  south  so 
that  the  morning  and  the  afternoon  sun  will  shine  on  oppo- 
site sides  of  the  rows.  If  your  garden  has  a  decided  slope, 
run  the  rows  across  the  slope  to  prevent  washing  of  the  soil 
by  rains. 

Everything  should  be  planted  in  straight  rows  to  make 
cultivation  easy.  Draw  a  straight  line  across  your  plan 
for  each  row  of  vegetables,  and  write  the  name  of  the  vege- 
table on  or  beside  the  line.  Use  a  double  line  for  crops 
that  will  occupy  the  ground  the  entire  season. 

If  the  rows  run  east  and  west,  place  the  taller  plants  at 
the  north  side  of  the  garden,  so  that  the  low-growing  vege- 
tables will  not  be  shaded  by  them.  Give  your  plants  plenty 
of  room,  but  do  not  waste  space. 

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PLANNING  FOR  SUCCESSIVE   CROPS 


Make  your  plans  so  that  the  ground  will  be  occupied  dur- 
ing the  entire  season.  Early  varieties  of  vegetables,  like 
lettuce  and  radishes,  may  be  followed  by  those  which  have 
a  short  growing  season,  like  beets  and  beans.  Or  a  quick- 
growing  and  a  slow-growing  crop  may  be  planted  close  to- 
gether. Then  the  quick-growing  crop  can  be  removed 
before  it  interferes  with  the  long-season  crop. 

Some  gardeners  raise  only  a  few  vegetables  and  make 
*^ successive  plantings"  of  these,  so  that  they  may  be  har- 
vested during  a  longer  time.  Thus  radishes,  lettuce,  beets, 
peas,  beans,  or  sweet  corn  may  be  planted  at  intervals  of 
ten  days  or  two  weeks. 

As  a  general  rule,  leaf  vegetables  like  lettuce,  parsley, 
and  Swiss  chard  will  do  better  in  partial  shade  than  vege- 
tables that  are  grown  for  their  fruits  or  seeds.  Squashes, 
cuciunbers,  and  pumpkins  may  be  grown  where  the  sun 
shines  only  part  of  the  day. 

The  plans  given  show  a  j&rst  and  second  planting  for  a 
garden.     Study  these  and  the  table  on  page  62. 

[9] 


TOOLS 


The  most  necessary  garden  tools  are  the  hoe,  rake,  spad- 
ing fork,  hand  weeder,  trowel,  line,  and  watering  can. 
When  sod  is  to  be  turned  under,  a  spade  will  be  needed  in 
place  of  the  fork. 

Be  sure  to  buy  strong  yet  light  tools.  Toy  garden  tools 
will  not  do,  and  you  cannot  handle  the  heavy  tools  that  are 
made  for  men.     Get  tools  that  are  suited  to  your  size. 

Mark  on  the  handle  of  your  hoe  a  point  one  yard  from 
the  end.  Then  divide  the  yard  into  feet,  and  the  first  foot 
from  the  end  of  the  handle  into  inches.  This  marked  hoe 
handle  may  then  be  used  as  a  measure  when  planting  and 
thinning. 

Every  tool  should  be  cleaned  with  a  dry  rag  to  prevent 
rusting,  before  it  is  put  away.  Hang  each  tool  in  its  own 
place  in  a  dry  part  of  the  house,  barn,  or  other  building. 

[lo] 


FERTILIZING  THE   SOIL 

As  a  rule,  a  garden  needs 
all  the  fertilizer  the  owner 
can  secure. 

For  your  garden  patch, 
buy  a  load  of  well-rotted 
horse  manure,  or  horse  ma- 
nure and  cow  manure 
mixed.  Fresh  manure  is 
not  so  good;  it  contains 
weed  seeds  and  causes  the 
soil  to  dry  out.  Spread  the 
manure  evenly  with  the 
spading  fork.  Cover  the 
garden  plot  from  2  to  4 
inches  deep. 

Throw  all  kinds  of  plant 
materials,  as  sods,  grass,  weeds,  leaves,  and  stalks,  into 
a  pit  or  in  a  pile  near  the  garden.  Cover  them  with  earth 
and  allow  them  to  remain  till  rotted.  Material  of  this  kind 
is  called  compost.  Another  summer  it  will  help  fertilize 
your  garden. 

Commercial  fertilizers  may  be  used  to  help  out  if  you 
cannot  get  enough  good  manure.  In  using  these  fertilizers, 
follow  the  directions  that  are  sent  with  them. 

If  the  soil  is  heavy  or  sour,  use  2  pounds  of  air-slaked  lime 
to  every  5  square  yards  of  garden.  Spread  it  over  the  sur- 
face of  the  soil  after  the  spading  is  done,  and  rake  it  in.  Ask 
an  experienced  gardener  whether  he  thinks  your  soil  needs 
lime.  Heavy  clay  soils  and  poorly  drained  soils  are  es- 
pecially likely  to  be  sour. 

[11] 


SPADING 


IS 


Spading  is  a  man's  job, 
and  you  will  have  to  get 
somebody  to  do  it  for  you. 
Yet  it  is  so  important  a 
part  of  the  work  that  you 
ought  to  know  how  it  is 
done.  Watch  while  it  is 
being  done,  and  when  you 
are  older  you  will  be  able 
to  do  it  yourself. 

The  trench  system  of 
spading  is  best.  Place  the 
soil  removed  the  first  time 
you  spade  across  the  garden 
in  a  ridge  along  the  end  of 
your  garden.  This  leaves 
placed   the   soil   turned  in 


an  open  ditch  into  which 
the  next  time  across. 

Hold  the  spade  upright,  place  your  foot  on  the  shoulder 
of  the  spade,  and  throw  the  weight  of  your  body  on  it.  Let 
your  weight  drive  the  spade  into  the  ground. 

When  the  spade  is  in  the  soil,  move  it  forward  and  back- 
ward until  the  earth  is  loosened;  then  lift  and  turn  the 
spadeful  of  soil.  It  is  important  to  turn  the  earth  to  the 
.full  depth  of  the  spade,  so  that  the  roots  of  the  vegetables 
will  be  able  to  strike  deep  into  the  soil.  Manure  turned 
under  must  be  well  covered  and  not  left  on  the  surface 
to  dry. 

After  spading,  rake  your  entire  plot,  smoothing  the  sur- 
face.    Do  this  before  the  soil  dries. 

[12] 


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SEEDS   AND    PLANTING   DEPTHS 

Be  sure  to  buy  your  seeds  from  the  best  seedsman  or  seed 
store  you  can  find.  Your  teacher  or  your  parents  can  tell 
you  where  to  get  them. 

The  smallest  packets  you  can  buy  will  give  you  enough 
of  each  of  the  smaller  seeds.  For  a  20-foot  row  buy  i  gill 
of  corn  or  2  gills  of  beans  or  peas. 

The  depth  at  which  a  seed  should  be  planted  depends  on 
its  size  and  the  heaviness  of  the  soil.  A  general  rule  is  to 
plant  a  seed  four  times  as  deep  as  its  thickness ;  but  this  rule 
cannot  always  be  followed  strictly.  They  may  be  planted 
deeper  in  a  light  than  in  a  heavy  soil,  and  deeper  after 
the  soil  has  become  thoroughly  warm  than  in  early  spring. 

Soaking  the  large  seeds  over  night  in  water  is  a  good  plan 
if  you  are  sure  to  plant  them  next  day.  It  is  not  necessary 
to  soak  seeds,  although  it  hastens  sprouting  one  or  two  days. 

Early  varieties  of  vegetables  should  be  selected  by  those 
who  are  beginning  garden  work. 

Later  you  will  be  told  about  testing  your  seeds  (page  37) 
and  raising  your  own  seedlings  (page  38). 

[13] 


PLANTING 

This  is  surely  planting  day.  The  sun  is  warm  and  the 
soil  is  dry  enough  to  work  without  its  sticking  together. 
The  garden  has  been  spaded  and  the  surface  made  smooth. 

First  get  four  sticks,  each  about  i  foot  long.  Drive  one 
at  each  corner  of  the  garden.  Now,  run  a  cord  around  the 
garden,  fastening  it  to  the  corner  posts.  Measure  off  and 
mark  on  each  side  of  the  garden  the  ends  of  the  rows,  ac- 
cording to  your  plan.  Drive  a  stick  at  the  end  of  each 
row.  Small,  stout  sticks  about  6  inches  long  and  i  inch 
wide  make  good  markers.  On  the  markers  at  one  end  of 
the  rows,  write  the  names  of  the  vegetables. 

Stretch  the  garden  line  tightly  close  to  the  soil  to  mark  off 
each  row.  Under  it  make  a  furrow  with  a  sharp  stick  or 
with  the  hoe.  The  depth  of  this  furrow  should  be  about 
five  times  the  thickness  of  the  seed  to  be  planted  in  the  row. 

[14] 


Water  thoroughly  in  the  furrow  if  the  soil  is  dry,  being 
careful  not  to  let  the  water  wash  the  soil  into  the  furrow. 
Take  the  seeds  in  the  palm  of  your  left  hand  and  with  the 
right  hand  drop  them  one  by  one  in  the  furrow. 

With  seeds  the  size  of  radish  seeds,  plant  about  three  or 
four  seeds  to  the  inch.  Cover  them  with  fine  soil  to  about 
four  times  the  thickness  of  the  seed. 

It  is  best  to  use  your  hands  to  cover  small  seeds ;  the  hoe 
may  be  used  for  covering  large  seeds.  After  covering  the 
seeds,  walk  upon  every  inch  of  the  planted  row.  The  seeds 
must  draw  their  water  from  the  soil,  and  the  soil  must  be 
pressed  against  them  on  all  sides.  After  planting,  water 
the  garden  thoroughly  if  the  soil  is  dry,  and  if  the  soil  is 
clay,  rake  the  surface  of  the  planted  rows. 

Some  plants  are  best  raised  from  seedlings,  and  these  must 
be  planted  even  more  carefully  than  the  seeds.  Buy  six 
good  tomato  plants,  twelve  good  cabbages,  and  twenty  good 
lettuce  plants  of  early  varieties,  and  set  them  out  late  in 
the  afternoon  or  on  a  cloudy  day. 

Stretch  the  garden  line  across  the  tomato  row.  Under 
the  stretched  line,  dig  six  holes  with  the  trowel,  about  the 
depth  of  the  trowel  blade  and  2  feet  apart. 

Fill  each  hole  with  water.  Take  the  tomato  plants  one 
at  a  time,  disturbing  the  roots  as  little  as  possible,  and  place 
them  in  the  holes.  With  the  fingers  press  the  earth  about 
them  firmly.     Then  cut  off  at  least  one  half  the  leaves. 

The  rows  of  cabbage  and  of  lettuce  are  planted  in  the 
same  way,  except  that  the  lettuce  plants  are  set  9  inches 
apart  in  the  row  and  the  cabbage  18  inches. 

After  being  set  out,  plants  may  need  shelter  from  the  sun 
for  a  few  days.  Gardeners  often  use  shingles  set  so  as  to 
shade  the  plants  from  the  sun. 

[15] 


CULTIVATING 


Keep  the  weeds  out  of  your  garden.  If  let  alone  they  will 
grow  much  faster  than  your  vegetables  and  will  rob  them 
of  water  and  of  food  materials. 

As  soon  as  your  vegetables  are  well  out  of  the  ground, 
cultivate  them  with  the  rake  or  hoe.  Continue  to  do  this 
once  or  twice  a  week  until  the  plants  are  full  grown.  Pull 
up  any  large  weeds  and  throw  them  on  the  compost  pile. 

In  cultivating,  stir  the  soil  between  the  plants  to  the  depth 
of  about  I  inch.  Always  break  the  crust  on  the  surface  of 
the  soil  after  a  rain.  The  loose  soil  becomes  a  mulch  or  dust 
blanket  which  keeps  the  moisture  in  the  ground. 

The  easiest  way  to  destroy  weeds  is  to  rake  the  soil  when 
they  are  just  starting.  The  hand  weeder  may  be  used  in 
the  row. 

In  cultivating,  do  not  dig  deep  enough  to  disturb  the 
roots  ;  and  in  hoeing  near  your  plants,  stir  only  the  surface 
of  the  soil. 

[16] 


WATERING 


When  rains  are  frequent,  there  is  no  need  of  watering  your' 
garden.  But  if  the  weather  is  dry  or  the  plants  look  thirsty, 
it  is  best  to  give  them  water.  The  evening  is  the  best  time 
for  watering. 

Water  the  plants  until  the  ground  is  thoroughly  soaked. 
Place  the  spout  of  the  can  close  to  the  ground  to  avoid  washing 
the  soil.  It  will  take  from  two  to  five  8-quart  cans  for  each 
row. 

W^atering  should  be  done  from  one  to  three  times  a  week, 
according  to  the  weather.  Many  gardeners  say  that  a 
thorough  soaking  once  a  week  is  better  than  frequent  water- 
ing. If  you  can  run  a  hose  to  the  garden  and  attach  an 
automatic  sprinkler  to  it,  .the  watering  will  be  much  easier. 

Remember  that  watering  the  ground  between  rows  is  more 
important  than  watering  the  leaves  of  the  plants.  When 
the  surface  of  the  soil  begins  to  dry  after  watering,  loosen 
it  with  a  rake.    This  will  keep  the  soil  from  baking. 

[17] 


THINNING 


When  the  young  plants  are  from  2  to  3  inches  in  height, 
they  must  be  carefully  thinned  out  where  they  are  crowded. 
Leave  the  strongest  plants  wherever  you  can,  and  be  careful 
not  to  disturb  them  when  pulling  up  the  useless  ones. 

Waste  plants  may  be  thrown  on  the  compost  pile.  Beets 
may  be  left  to  grow  to  a  height  of  6  or  8  inches.  Then 
those  removed  in  thinning  may  be  cooked  like  spinach. 

If  there  are  spaces  where  the  seeds  did  not  come  up, 
transplant  to  these  spaces  some  of  the  plants  that  are 
crowded.  1 

Be  sure  that  your  plants  are  not  too  crowded.  They  will 
produce  nothing  at  all  if  they  have  not  sufficient  room. 
They  will  grow  more  thickly  where  the  soil  is  fertile  and  the 
light  strong  than  where  the  soil  is  poor  and  the  light  weak. 

Consult  the  planting  table  on  page  62  and  ask  an  expe- 
rienced gardener  about  the  proper  distances  for  the  dif- 
ferent vegetables  in  your  soil. 

[18] 


TRANSPLANTING 


Several  hours  before  you  wish  to  Uft  a  plant,  water  it 
thoroughly.  Dig  a  hole  with  the  trowel  where  you  wish  the 
plant  to  grow.     Fill  the  hole  with  water. 

Now  push  the  trowel  down  into  the  earth  on  each  side  of 
the  plant,  cutting  out  a  ball  of  earth  about  the  roots.  Then, 
with  the  left  hand  holding  the  plant,  take  it  up  on  the  blade. 
Keep  as  much  soil  as  possible  about  the  roots. 

Place  soil  and  plant  in  the  hole  prepared  for  them,  and 
withdraw  the  trowel  gently,  so  as  not  to  disturb  the  roots. 
Press  the  soil  firmly  about  the  roots  and  water  freely.  Then 
cover  the  moist  earth  about  the  plant  with  loose  soil. 

Cut  off  the  largest  outside  leaves.  In  transplanting,  it 
IS  well  to  remove  at  least  one  half  the  leaves  of  all  plants 
more  than  4  inches  high.  As  a  rule,  transplanting  is  done 
when  the  plants  are  from  2  to  4  inches  high. 

Late  afternoon  is  the  best  time  for  transplanting.  Shelter 
the  plants  from  the  sun  for  a  day  if  they  wilt. 

[19] 


HARVESTING  AND   MARKETING 


As  soon  as  a  vegetable  is  ready  for  use,  it  should  be 
gathered.  Pick  only  those  that  are  ready,  and  use  them  at 
once.  Fresh  vegetables  always  taste  best.  Be  very  care- 
ful, in  gathering  vegetables,  not  to  harm  the  plants  or  the 
remaining  vegetables. 

There  are.  several  ways  of  using  your  vegetables.  You 
may  give  or  sell  them  to  your  mother  for  the  home  table. 
Those  that  are  not  needed  at  home  may  be  sold  to  neighbors 
who  buy  their  vegetables,  or  to  a  grocer. 

If  you  wish  to  sell  vegetables,  you  must  take  care  to  ar- 
range them  neatly  and  attractively  in  salable  lots  or 
packages. 

Nearly  all  root  vegetables  are  tied,  with  the  tops  left  on, 
in  bunches  of  from  three  to  seven  according  to  the  size  of 
the  roots.  Tomatoes  are  sold  in  small  baskets.  The  best 
plan  is  to  study  the  demands  and  tastes  of  your  customers 
and  the  practice  of  the  grocers  in  your  neighborhood. 

[20] 


Date 

Garden  Account 

Received! Paid  out 

Jane  J 5 

1   buAxck  rcuicsKcs  -  vnot/ier- 

.o*)- 

June  l^ 

2  kattrs*  labor  at  10  cevdhs 

.20 

UUMe  lo 

4-  kea^s  ietfuce-arooer- 

.to 

June  21 

2   kecLC^5  Uttucc-THotKer 

.oy 

tJuYie  22 

2  bu/wcKes  ra-dis^es-ynotl^^r 

JO 

Jane  22 

1    pacfca^e  iurvtcp  jee^ 

.07 

June  22 

f           J              ' 
1    kour-  lahor-  at  iO  cents 

JO 

June  25" 

1  auart  beans- "mot (ler 

.oy 

June  25" 

4-  atco/rts  beans  -  grocer 

.20 

i                          J 

_ 

ACCOUNTING 


It  is  an  excellent  plan  to  keep  a  written  record  of  all  that 
you  buy  and  all  that  you  sell. 

Begin  with  a  simple  notebook.  Keep  the  record  so  that 
it  will  show  when,  for  what,  and  how  much  you  have  spent. 

Your  accounts  should  show  also  how  much  you  have  re- 
ceived in  money,  when  it  was  received,  and  for  what. 

It  is  well  to  keep  a  record  of  your  labor  in  hours  and  also 
to  note  the  vegetables  used  at  home.  Write  down  the 
market  value  in  dollars  and  cents  in  both  cases.  In  this . 
way  you  can  tell  what  the  profit  or  loss  on  your  garden  is, 
and  you  will  be  able  to  determine  which  vegetables  are 
most  profitable  for  you  to  raise. 

Always  keep  your  records  as  neatly  as  possible,  using  pen 
and  ink.  When  you  have  bought  or  sold  anything,  enter 
it  on  your  book  at  once. 

Open  an  account  at  the  savings  bank,  and  see  how  much 
you  can  save.  It  will  be  of  little  profit  to  you  to  earn 
money  unless  you  learn  to  keep  it. 

[21] 


KEEPING   VEGETABLE    MATTER   IN   THE    SOIL 

Never  burn  leaves,  grass,  or  the  stalks  of  plants,  but  find 
a  way  of  adding  these  materials  to  your  soil.  Plants  can- 
not grow  without  matter  of  this  kind,  and  if  you  burn  it  up, 
you  will  be  forced  to  buy  manure  to  take  its  place. 

A  good  way  to  use  leaves  is  to  rake  them  together  about 
bushes  or  shrubs  and  throw  a  layer  of  soil  over  them.  They 
act  like  a  quilt  to  hold  the  water  in  the  earth,  and  when 
they  decay  they  enrich  the  soil. 

When  the  garden  is  spaded,  weeds  and  stalks  of  vegetables 
may  be  laid  in  the  bottom  of  the  trench  and  buried,  and  vege- 
table matter  can  always  be  added  to  the  compost  heap  and 
allowed  to  rot  for  fertilizer.  This  material  not  only  feeds  the 
plants,  but  it  makes  the  soil  lighter  and  more  easily  worked. 

Another  way  to  add  vegetable  matter  to  the  soil  is  to 
raise  crops  and  spade  or  plow  them  into  the  land.  Farmers 
often  grow  whole  fields  of  cowpeas,  clover,  and  other  crops 
and  plow  them  under  to  enrich  the  soil.  When  these  crops 
are  grown  during  the  winter  they  are  called  cover  crops. 
You  will  find  a  cover  crop  very  valuable  in  case  you  cannot 
secure  fertilizer  in  proper  amount. 

If,  after  harvesting  your  garden  crops,  you  have  any 
land  you  do  not  wish  to  use,  spade  it  up  and  sow  it  with  rye. 
The  next  spring  this  rye  can  be  turned  under,  and  it  will 
help  to  fertilize  that  part  of  the  garden. 

Many  other  plants  besides  rye  are  used  for  cover  crops. 
Where  the  climate  is  mild,  crimson  clover  and  vetch  are 
grown  for  this  purpose. 

Cover  crops  should  be  sown  early  enough  to  allow  them  to 
make  considerable  growth  before  winter.  Otherwise  they 
will  not  add  much  vegetable  matter  to  the  soil. 

[22] 


II.   Vegetables 


RADISHES 


The  radish  will  endure  frost,  and  the  seeds  may  be  planted 
out  of  doors  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  dry  enough  to  work. 
Early  Scarlet  Turnip  and  French  Breakfast  are  good  va- 
rieties. 

Plant  in  rows  about  i  inch  deep,  with  two  or  three  seeds 
to  the  inch.     The  rows  may  be  from  9  to  12  inches  apart. 

After  the  plants  are  about  2  inches  high,  thin  them  so 
that  they  will  be  2  inches  apart.  In  fertile  soils  they  may 
be  allowed  to  grow  without  thinning  until  the  larger  ones 
are  ready  for  use.  When  these  are  pulled,  the  others  will 
have  room  to  grow.  If  the  soil  is  light  and  the  weather 
good,  they  will  be  ready  to  eat  in  from  four  to  six  weeks. 

The  radish  is  one  of  the  most  easily  grown  of  all  vege- 
tables, and  that  is  why  children  frequently  begin  the  plant- 
ing of  their  gardens  with  radishes. 

[23] 


LETTUCE 

Lettuce  may  be  planted  as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  soil 
can  be  worked,  for  it  will  endure  much  cold.  It  grows  well 
in  the  fall,  but  during  the  heat  of  summer  it  does  best  in 
partial  shade. 

The  two  leading  kinds  of  lettuce  are  the  head  lettuce  and 
leaf  lettuce.  The  leaf  lettuce  is  the  easier  to  grow.  Grand 
Rapids  and  Hanson  are  popular  varieties. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  indoors  in  a  box  of  earth  or  in 
a  flat  (page  38)  in  February  or  March.  Cover  only  lightly 
and  press  the  soil  down  well. 

When  the  plants  are  about  2  inches  high,  transplant  them 
into  pots  or  strawberry  boxes.  As  soon  as  the  frost  is  out 
of  the  ground,  set  them  in  the  garden,  in  rows  a  foot  apart 
and  from  9  to  12  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

For  later  use,  the  seed  of  lettuce  may  be  planted  in  the 
open  ground.  It  is  better  to  sow  the  seeds  in  a  small  bed 
and  transplant  the  seedlings  to  the  row. 

[24] 


BEANS 

The  dwarf  or  low-bush  varieties  of  bean  are  best  for  a 
beginner's  garden. 

Buy  the  Golden  Wax  or  the  Early  Valentine  string  bean. 
These  early  varieties  will  be  ready  to  use  in  from  six  to 
eight  weeks.  Farmers  say  that  beans  will  grow  anywhere 
if  they  have  plenty  of  sunlight.  At  least,  they  will  grow  in 
different  soils  and  under  a  variety  of  conditions. 

Plant  after  danger  of  frost  is  over.  Place  the  beans  2 
inches  apart  in  the  row  and  cover  them  to  a  depth  of  i  or 
2  inches.  The  rows  should  be  from  18  to  24  inches  apart. 
Later,  thin  the  row  till  the  plants  are  about  5  inches  apart. 

Be  careful  to  cultivate  beans  only  when  the  leaves  are 
dry,  or  the  plants  may  rust.  Pick  the  pods  each  day,  but 
take  only  those  that  are  ready  for  use.  Do  not  pick  beans 
when  the  leaves  are  wet. 

The  Golden  Wax  bean  is  ready  to  pick  when  the  pod 
turns  yellow.  The  green-pod  varieties  are  ready  when 
each  bean  shows  its  round  form  through  the  pod. 

[25] 


CORN 


Corn  needs  very  fertile  soil.  Plant  the  kernels  about  2 
inches  deep  in  rows  at  least  2  feet  apart,  placing  them  about 
4  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

When  the  plants  are  about  4  inches  high,  thin  them  so 
that  they  will  stand  10  or  1 2  inches  apart  in  the  row.  Wher- 
ever possible,  leave  the  strongest  plants.  Do  not  cultivate 
deep  between  the  rows,  or  you  will  destroy  the  fine  roots 
with  which  the  earth  is  filled. 

Corn  may  be  planted  in  hills  with  three  or  four  plants 
growing  in  each  hill.  In  this  case  the  hills  should  be  about 
3  feet  apart  each  way. 

Begin  with  the  Golden  Bantam  or  the  Country  Gentle- 
man variety.  The  Golden  Bantam  is  probably  the  best 
for  a  small  garden. 

Sometimes  branches  called  suckers  come  up  from  the 
roots.  Pull  these  off  as  soon  as  they  appear.  Do  not 
handle  or  play  with  the  silk,  or  the  kernels  will  not  form. 

[26] 


BEETS 

Beets  need  bright  sunshine  and  soil  that  is  fertile  and 
loose.  Treating  the  soil  with  lime  often  benefits  them 
greatly,  as  they  do  not  grow  well  in  sour  soil.  Plant  first 
the  early  turnip  varieties.  Be  sure  to  soak  the  seed  over 
night  before  planting. 

Plant  beets  soon  after  your  radishes  are  up,  and  for  suc- 
cessive crops  as  late  as  midsummer. 

Make  the  rows  at  least  12  inches  apart,  and  cover  the 
seed  to  the  depth  of  i  inch.  When  the  beets  are  about  6 
inches  high,  they  should  be  thinned  to  about  4  inches  apart. 

The  young  beet  tops  that  you  pull  up  in  thinning  are 
excellent  for  greens.  If  you  have  more  of  these  than  you 
need  for  one  meal,  thin  only  part  of  the  rows  on  one  day. 

Cultivate  the  rows  thoroughly  and  keep  a  dust  mulch 
on  the  surface  of  the  soil  (page  16). 

Beets  may  be  stored  in  the  cellar  for  winter  use.  Place 
them  in  boxes  and  cover  them  with  damp  sand  (page  53). 

[27] 


TOMATOES 


The  tomato  does  best  in  rich,  light,  sandy,  and  well- 
drained  soil.  Plants  may  be  bought,  or  the  seeds  may.be 
started  in  flats  in  March,  so  that  the  plants  will  be  from  6 
to  8  inches  high  when  the  weather  has  become  warm  and 
settled.  Then  the  plants  should  be  set  out  in  the  garden 
about  3  feet  apart.  They  should  not  be  set  out  until  two 
or  three  weeks  after  the  lettuce  has  been  transplanted. 

Soon  after  you  set  out  a  tomato  plant  in  the  garden,  drive 
a  stake  not  less  than  3  feet  in  height  securely  in  the  ground 
beside  it.  As  the  plant  grows  taller,  tie  it  loosely  to  this 
stake. 

Usually  the  lower  branches  are  pruned  away  so  that  only 
one  or  two  main  stems  are  formed.  Sometimes  plants  are 
set  only  2  feet  apart  each  way  and  pruned  to  a  single  stem. 

Tomatoes  may  easily  be  canned  for  winter  use  (page  49). 
It  is  better  to  choose  the  dwarf  varieties,  such  as  the  Stone 
or  Champion. 

[28] 


CABBAGE 

For  the  first  year,  get  an  early  variety  of  cabbage,  as  the 
Early  Wakefield.  The  second  year  you  can  try  a  late  kind. 
Sow  the  seeds  indoors  in  flats  during  February  or  March. 

When  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground  and  the  weather  is 
settled,  and  the  plants  are  from  4  to  6  inches  high,  set  them 
out  in  the  garden.  Cabbages  thrive  in  cool  weather  and 
will  do  well  in  newly  cultivated  soil.  But  do  not  plant 
them  in  the  same  place  for  two  successive  years.  Set  them 
in  rows  about  2  feet  apart  and  18  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

The  cabbage  seems  to  have  a  special  attraction  for  insect 
enemies.  First,  the  cutworm  is  likely  to  bother  it.  The 
plants  can  be  protected  from  this  worm  by  putting  a  paper 
collar  around  the  stem  of  each  one. 

Then  the  cabbage  butterfly  will  lay  its  eggs  on  the  leaves 
and  you  will  have  to  destroy  the  worms.  Arsenate  of  lead 
will  hold  them  in  check  (page  54),  but  it  is  poisonous  and 
should  not  be  used  after  the  heads  begin  to  form. 

[29] 


CUCUMBERS 

In  some  parts  of  the  country  cucumbers  are  rather  diffi- 
cult for  beginners  to  grow.  In  midsummer  they  can  be 
raised  where  there  is  shade  for  a  part  of  the  day. 

The  cucumber  is  planted  in  hills  4  or  5  feet  apart.  Place 
a  pailful  of  rotted  manure  in  a  shallow  hole  and  cover  it 
with  5  or  6  inches  of  soil,  so  as  to  make  a  hill  3  inches  high. 

On  this  hill  sprinkle  about  a  dozen  cucumber  seeds,  and 
press  each  seed  into  the  ground  i  inch  deep  and  cover  it. 
Thin  them  to  not  more  than  four  plants  in  a  hill.  If  the 
plants  are  very  vigorous  and  fail  to  set  fruit,  pinch  ofl  the 
ends  of  the  vines.     The  White  Spine  is  a  good  variety. 

Cucumbers  should  be  picked  when  from  4  to  6  inches  long 
and  while  still  green.    Larger  or  smaller  ones  may  be  pickled. 

Squashes  and  pumpkins  are  relatives  of  the  cucumber  and 
may  be  grown  in  much  the  same  way.  If  grown  close  to- 
gether, these  plants  will  cross  and  the  seed  will  not  be  good 
for  planting. 

[30] 


OTHER  VEGETABLES 

KOHL-RABI 

The  kohl-rabi  is  a  very  valuable  quick-growing  vegetable 
of  the  cabbage  family.  It  needs  plenty  of  moisture,  good 
cultivation,  and  good  soil. 

Kohl-rabi  endures  frost  and  may  be  planted  early,  in 
rows  about  15  inches  apart.  When  the  plants  are  about 
2  inches  high,  thin  them  5  to  8  inches  apart  in  the  row. 
Harvest  the  plants  when  the  knobs,  or  ball-like  swellings 
of  the  stems,  are  from  2  to  3  inches  in  diameter. 

Kohl-rabi  is  also  grown  from  seedlings.  Plants  may  be 
bought,  or  transplanted  from  the  crowded  parts  of  your 
row. 

SWISS   CHARD 

Chard  is  really  a  leaf  beet.  It  is  a  better  vegetable 
than  spinach  for  a  small  garden  because  it  takes  less  room 
and  grows  all  summer.  Sow  seeds  in  early  spring,  i  inch 
deep  in  rows  2  feet  apart,  and  thin  the  row  so  that  the 
plants  stand  5  inches  apart.  Cut  off  the  large  outside 
leaves  and  allow  the  inner  leaves  to  grow.  The  large  leaves 
and  leafstalks  can  be  cooked  together  like  spinach,  or  the 
leafstalk  and  midrib  can  be  separated  from  the  blade  of 
the  leaf  and  cooked  like  asparagus. 

PARSLEY 

As  parsley  is  very  slow  to  start,  it  is  best  to  soak  the  seed 
a  few  hours  in  warm  water  before  planting.  A  row  of 
parsley  3  to  5  feet  long  gives  plenty  for  the  average  family, 
as  it  continues  to  grow  after  each  cutting.    It  grows  best 

[31] 


in  the  shade,  and  will  live  outdoors  over  winter  if  properly 
covered ;  or  it  can  be  potted  and  kept  in  a  kitchen  window. 
It  may  be  grown  as  a  border  plant. 

ONIONS 

Onions  are  grown  most  easily  from  small  bulbs,  or  ^'sets.'' 
The  usual  plan  is  to  place  the  sets  2  inches  apart  in  rows  1 2 
inches  apart,  pressing  them  an  inch  or  two  into  the  soil.  As 
the  plants  become  crowded,  pull  out  and  use  every  other  one. 

Onions  may  also  be  grown  from  seed.  Sow  the  seed  in 
rows  12  inches  apart,  as  early  as  possible,  in  finely  pulverized 
soil.  Cover  them  i  inch  deep,  press  the  soil  down  firmly, 
and  sprinkle  loose  earth  on  the  row.  Thin  and  use  the  young 
plants  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  be  crowded. 

TURNIPS 

Sow  turnips  very  early  in  the  spring,  in  rows  12  to  18 
inches  apart  and  f  inch  deep.  Thin  the  plants  to  3  inches 
apart.     For  winter  use,  sow  the  seed  in  late  summer. 

The  small  white  varieties  are  sweeter  for  early  use ;  the 
others  mature  best  in  cool  weather.  They  can  be  stored  in 
the  same  manner  as  carrots  and  beets. 

PEAS 

Plant  peas  very  early,  in  rows  2  to  3  feet  apart ;  varieties 
like  the  Alaska  will  stand  heavy  frosts.  Do  not  fertilize 
just  before  planting ;  if  you  do,  you  will  have  more  vines 
than  peas.  For  early  use  plant  i  or  2  inches  deep.  For 
later  use  plant  in  a  trench  6  inches  deep  and  cover  the  seeds 
not  more  than  2  inches.  After  the  plants  are  4  to  5  inches 
high,  the  soil  should  be  gradually  worked  in  around  them 
until  the  trench  is  filled. 

[32] 


III.    Flowers 


SWEET  ALYSSUM 


Flowers  add  beauty  to  a  garden,  and  they  are  very  inter- 
esting to  grow.  Always  plant  some  of  them.  Sweet  alys- 
sum  is  one  of  the  easiest  to  grow. 

Sweet  alyssum  should  be  used  as  a  border  plant.  In  a 
border  about  a  garden  this  flower  is  like  lace  on  a  garment. 
It  will  bloom  during  the  entire  season. 

Buy  seed  of  the  Gem  sweet  alyssum.  It  is  a  dwarf 
variety  that  will  not  crowd  your  vegetables. 

Sow  the  seed  as  early  in  the  spring  as  possible,  in  the 
place  where  you  wish  the  plants  to  grow.  The  seed  is 
small,  and  needs  only  a  light  covering  of  soil,  which  should 
be  thoroughly  pressed  down. 

When  the  plants  come  up,  thin  them  to  about  6  inches 
apart.  In  the  fall  some  of  the  plants  may  be  lifted  and 
taken  into  the  house  for  winter  blooming. 

[33], 


NASTURTIUM 

The  nasturtium  is  very  easily  grown,  as  it  will  thrive 
in  poor  soil.  In  a  very  rich  soil  the  plants  are  likely  to 
run  to  leaves  instead  of  blossoming. 

The  low-growing  dwarf  variety  of  nasturtiums  will  grow 
in  flower  pots.  It  blooms  in  about  ten  weeks.  The  climb- 
ing varieties  are  good,  but  they  need  strings  or  other  sup- 
ports to  trail  upon. 

The  plants  may  be  started  early  in  flats  and  set  out  when 
the  weather  is  settled,  or  the  seed  may  be  planted  in  the 
open  ground  after  danger  of  frost  is  over. 

If  you  plant  nasturtiums  in  a  bed,  be  careful  to  give  each 
plant  plenty  of  room.  Set  the  plants  15  to  20  inches 
apart  each  way.  They  will  bloom  for  a  long  time  if  the 
flowers  are  kept  picked  so  that  seed  is  not  formed. 

Nasturtiums  trained  over  a  length  of  wire  netting  will 
make  a  screen  of  blossoms  for  the  porch  or  for  a  fence. 
Humming  birds  are  especially  fond  of  these  flowers. 

[34] 


OTHER  FLOWERS 


MARIGOLD 

The  Dwarf  French  mari- 
gold is  one  of  the  best 
garden  flowers  for  children. 
It  is  hardy  and  sure  to 
bloom. 

It  may  be  used  for  a 
border,  or  it  will  make  a 
beautiful  mass  of  color  in 
the  center  of  a  flower  bed. 

You  may  sow  the  seeds  in 
flats  indoors  early  in  March 
and  transplant  the  young 
plants ;  or  you  may  sow  the 
seeds  outdoors  early  in  the 
spring.  Cover  the  seeds  to 
the  depth  of  about  i  inch.  The  plants  should  be  thinned 
to  about  12  inches  apart.  The  African  marigold  is  also 
a  most  attractive  flower. 


CALIFORNIA   POPPY 

The  California  poppy  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  flowers 
that  we  have  when  grown  in  masses.  Plant  it  in  large 
beds  or  in  wide  borders.  If  the  flowers  are  picked  every 
day,  the  plants  will  bloom  all  summer. 

Sow  the  seeds  where  the  flowers  are  to  be  grown.  As  the 
seeds  are  very  small,  see  that  the  soil  is  finely  pulverized. 
After  the  seeds  have  been  sown,  press  the  surface  of  the  bed 
with  the  hands  or  feet  and  sprinkle  it  with  loose  earth. 

[35] 


The  California  poppy  needs  plenty  of  sunshine.  It  does 
not  flourish  in  the  shade  or  in  wet  soils. 

COSMOS 

Cosmos  is  one  of  our  most  beautiful  flowers  for  late 
blooming.     It  will  do  well  in  almost  any  soil. 

It  is  best  to  start  cosmos  indoors  in  flats  in  February. 
When  the  weather  permits,  set  the  plants  outdoors,  about 
1 8  inches  apart.  The  seed  may  be  sown  outdoors  in  the 
spring,  with  good  results. 

Cosmos  is  particularly  good  to  use  as  a  background  for 
a  border,  or  to  screen  a  backyard  fence.  It  looks  best  when 
planted  in  a  bed  of  some  length  and  2  or  3  feet  wide.  It 
furnishes  beautiful  cut  flowers. 

In  the  northern  part  of  the  United  States  the  dwarf 
early  varieties  are  the  best  to  plant. 

PANSIES 

The  pansy  does  best  in  cool  weather.  In  cold  climates  it 
will  bloom  all  summer. 

Usually  the  seeds  are  sown  in  a  hot  bed  or  a  cold  frame 
in  late  summer  or  early  fall  and  the  plants  are  wintered 
there.     Then  they  are  set  out  in  the  spring. 

Or  you  may  plant  the  seeds  in  July  or  August  in  a  rich 
bed,  and  when  frost  comes  cover  the  plants  with  leaves  or 
straw.  Take  off  the  covering  with  the  first  warm  weather 
in  the  spring.  Soon  the  plants  will  be  growing,  and  a  little 
later  the  flowers  will  appear. 

Pick  all  the  flowers  every  day  if  you  wish  to  have  plenty 
of  blossoms.  If  seeds  form,  the  blooming  will  be  checked ; 
the  plant  has  raised  its  family  and  is  ready  to  stop. 

[36] 


IV.   The  Seasons 


JANUARY  — SEED  TESTING 

There  is  something  you  can  do  in  gardening  every  month 
in  the  year,  even  when  the  snow  is  on  the  ground. 

In  January,  send  for  a  seed  catalog  of  a  reliable  dealer. 
Draw  on  paper  the  plan  of  your  next  season's  garden. 
Send  for  the  seeds  your  plan  calls  for. 

When  you  receive  your  seeds,  test  a  few  of  them  to  see 
if  they  are  good.  Take  a  dinner  plate  and  put  on  it  a 
blotter  4  or  5  inches  square.  On  this  place  ten  seeds. 
Then  place  over  the  seeds  another  blotter.  Soak  all  well 
in  water  and  cover  with  a  second  plate. 

Set  the  plates  in  a  warm  place  and  observe  the  seeds 
every  day.  Keep  the  blotters  moist,  but  do  not  let  water 
stand  over  them.  If  nine  seeds  sprout,  the  seeds  are  excel- 
lent, and  if  eight  sprout,  they  may  be  considered  good. 

In  January  read  books  on  gardening. 

[37] 


FEBRUARY  —  FLATS 

In  February  get  flats  ready  to  start  your  seedlings. 

To  make  a  flat,  get  a  box  from  the  grocer,  and  saw  the 
sides  and  ends  off  about  4  inches  from  the  bottom.  The  box 
should  be  of  such  a  size  that  you  will  be  able  to  carry  the 
flat  about  when  it  is  filled  with  earth.  Bore  a  few  small 
holes  in  the  bottom  for  drainage. 

Spread  a  little  excelsior  over  the  bottom  of  the  flat  and 
cover  this  with  rich,  loose  soil  to  within  i  inch  of  the  top 
of  the  flat.     The  soil  must  be  very  rich  and  well  pulverized. 

Sow  very  small  seeds,  like  lettuce  seeds,  on  top  of  the  soil 
in  rows  2  or  3  inches  apart  and  press  them  down  with  the 
hand.  Sprinkle  the  surface  with  loose  earth  if  a  crust  forms 
on  the  soil.  Plant  larger  seeds,  like  nasturtium  or  beet 
seeds,  in  drills,  2  or  3  inches  apart,  and  cover  them  to  about 
four  times  the  thickness  of  the  seed.  Mark  with  labels  the 
kind  of  seed  planted  in  each  flat  or  in  each  part  of  a  flat. 

Start  your  seedlings  this  month. 

[38] 


MARCH  — HOT   BEDS 

The  hot  bed  is  a  little  greenhouse  that  is  heated  with 
fresh  horse  manure.  Plants  like  radishes  and  lettuce  can 
be  grown  in  it  late  in  the  fall  and  early  in  the  spring,  and 
seedlings  can  be  started  in  it  several  weeks  before  outdoor 
work  can  be  begun  in  the  spring. 

In  making  a  hot  bed  a  pit  is  dug  in  the  earth,  walls  are 
made  of  boards,  brick,  or  concrete,  and  a  sash  with  glass 
in  it  is  fitted  over  the  bed.  Fresh  horse  manure  is  then 
placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  pit,  and  covered  with  rich  soil 
and  sand.  The  heat  of  the  rnanure  warms  the  earth,  and 
the  plants  grow  very  rapidly. 

A  little  hot  bed  covered  by  a  single  sash  can  easily  be 
made.  Write  to  the  Superintendent  of  Public  Documents, 
Washington,  D.C.,  for  a  bulletin  on  hot  beds  and  cold 
frames. 

In  March  thin  your  seedlings.  Transplant  them  to  boxes 
or  to  small  pots. 

[39] 


APRIL  — COLD   FRAMES 

A  cold  frame  is  like  a  hot  bed,  except  that  it  has  no  pit, 
or  only  a  very  shallow  one,  and  no  manure  is  used  in  it. 
Plants  can  be  grown  in  it  before  the  outdoor  garden  season 
begins,  but  it  will  not  protect  the  plants  from  severe  cold 
as  a  hot  bed  will. 

A  very  fertile  seed  bed  is  needed  in  a  cold  frame,  because 
it  is  desirable  to  grow  as  many  plants  as  possible  in  a  small 
space.     Be  sure  to  raise  the  sash  on  a  bright  day. 

The  garden  season  may  be  extended  by  the  use  of  plant 
protectors  also.  A  very  simple  protector  may  be  made  of 
a  small  box  which  has  no  top  or  bottom.  Place  the  box 
over  a  plant,  and  cover  it  with  cheesecloth  at  night  or  on 
cold  days.  Window  glass  may  be  placed  over  these  boxes, 
instead  of  the  cheesecloth.  In  this  way  young  plants  may 
be  started  in  the  spring  before  danger  of  frost  is  over,  or 
protected  from  frost  in  the  fall. 

In  April  plant  your  early  vegetables  and  transplant  hardy 
seedlings  like  lettuce  and  cabbage. 

[40] 


SEPAL. 

SECTION  COROLLA  CALYX 


MAY  — THE   FLOWER 

May  is  the  month  of  flowers,  and  you  will  find  pleasure 
in  studying  the  blossoms  on  your  vegetables  and  flowers. 

In  the  center  of  the  flower  is  the  pistil.  The  lower  part  of 
the  pistil  is  the  seed  pod,  or  ovary.  Around  the  pistil  are  the 
stamens.     They  produce  a  fine  yellow  powder  called  pollen. 

Around  the  stamens  are  the  petals,  or  colored  parts  of 
the  flower.  All  the  petals  together  are  called  the  corolla. 
Near  the  base  of  the  petals  of  most  flowers  are  small  glands 
that  produce  a  clear,  sugary  sirup  called  nectar. 

Under  the  petals  are  the  sepals.  In  many  flowers  they 
inclose  the  bud.     All  the  sepals  together  make  the  calyx. 

Now,  why  do  plants  produce  flowers?  It  is  to  attract 
the  bees  and  butterflies  and  other  insects.  A  plant  cannot 
produce  seed  unless  the  pollen  from  the  stamens  is  placed 
on  the  top  of  the  pistil  to  fertilize  the  young  seeds. 

So  the  flowers  produce  the  sweet  nectar  to  attract  the 
insects,  and  the  bright  colors  and  sweet  perfumes  are  adver- 
tisements telling  the  insects  where  the  nectar  may  be  found. 
In  this  way  the  insects  are  attracted  to  the  flowers,  and  in 
their  visits  they  carry  the  pollen  from  the  stamens  to  the 
pistils.  Thus  the  seeds  are  fertilized  and  made  to  grow, 
and  then  the  wonderful  work  of  the  flower  is  done. 

In  May  plant  tender  vegetables.     Thin  your  early  ones. 

[41] 


JUNE  —  SUCCESSION   AND    COMPANION 
CROPPING 

Growing  one  crop  of  vegetables  after  another  crop,  on  the 
same  ground  and  in  the  same  season,  is  called  succession 
cropping.  In  this  list  the  first  crop  may  be  followed  by 
the  second : 

Spinach  by  beans  Peas  by  kohl-rabi 

Radishes  by  lettuce  Lettuce  by  beans 

Beans  by  spinach  Radishes  by  corn 

Beets  by  turnips  Onions  by  carrots 

Companion  cropping  is  raising  two  vegetables  on  the  soil 
at  the  same  time.  Corn  and  pumpkins  or  corn  and  squash 
will  grow  together  all  summer ;  but  the  usual  method  of  com- 
panion cropping  is  with  a  long-season  and  a  short-season  crop 
(page  9).  Onions  and  radishes  may  be  grown  with  winter 
cabbage;  beets,  kohl-rabi,  and  lettuce  with  tomatoes. 

Plant  succession  crops  in  June.  Fight  weeds  and  insect 
pests, 

[42] 


JULY  — PLANT  SUPPORTS 

You  will  find  that  some  plants  need  to  be  held  up.  Vine 
plants  and  some  tall-growing  plants  are  too  weak  to  carry 
their  own  weight. 

Soon  after  planting  pole  beans  or  tomato  plants,  set  a 
stake  at  a  distance  of  2  or  3  inches  from  each  plant ;  have 
the  stake  from  3  to  5  feet  in  height.  The  beans  will  cling 
to  the  supports  of  themselves,  but  tomatoes  and  some  other 
plants  must  be  tied  to  the  poles  as  they  grow. 

Garden  peas  and  sweet  peas  are  best  supported  by  a  kind 
of  trellis.  Wire  netting  3  or  4  feet  wide,  set  upright  and 
nailed  to  posts  along  the  row  of  vines,  will  make  an  excellent 
support.  Strings  stretched  at  different  heights  from  stout 
stakes  placed  at  the  ends  of  the  row  may  be  used  for  a  short 
row.  A  piece  of  wire  netting  put  up  endwise  makes  a  good 
support  for  morning-glories,  climbing  nasturtiums,  and 
other  tall-growing  vines. 

In  July  cultivate  often,  to  keep  the  moisture  in  the  soiL 

[43] 


AUGUST  —  STRAWBERRIES 

If  your  soil  is  rich,  you  will  have  little  difficulty  in  raising 
strawberries.  There  are  many  varieties,  both  early  and 
late.  Ask  an  experienced  gardener  what  kinds  are  suitable 
for  your  neighborhood. 

Make  the  rows  about  2  feet  apart  and  set  the  plants  about 
10  inches  apart  in  the  row.  Young  plants  have  soft  roots 
and  old  plants  wiry  roots.  Be  sure  to  get  young  plants. 
Cultivate  them  carefully  and  keep  them  free  from  runners. 

It  is  well  to  spread  a  thin  layer  of  straw  around  the  straw- 
berry plants  and  between  the  rows ;  this  keeps  the  moisture 
in  the  ground,  prevents  the  growth  of  weeds,  and  keeps  the 
berries  clean. 

In  old  beds  you  will  find  many  vigorous  runners  growing 
out  from  the  plants  and  taking  root.  In  August  lift  the 
strongest  of  these  for  setting  out  a  new  bed.  Strawberries 
will  not  bear  so  well  after  the  plants  are  three  years  old. 

Pansies  should  he  planted  this  month, 

[44] 


SEPTEMBER  —  GROWING  BULBS  IN  WATER 


The  easiest  plant  to  raise  in  water  is  the  Paper  White  nar- 
cissus. Other  bulbs  may  be  grown  in  the  same  way,  espe- 
cially the  Roman  hyacinth  and  the  Chinese  lily.  Buy  bulbs 
of  only  the  first  quality.  Plant  them  any  time  from  Sep- 
tember to  December ;  in  September  for  Christmas  blooming. 

Get  a  glass  bowl  7  or  8  inches  across  the  top  and  3  to  4 
inches  deep.  Place  pebbles  in  the  bowl  to  the  depth  of 
I  inch,  then  set  four  or  five  bulbs  root  end  downward  on 
the  pebbles  and  add  enough  pebbles  to  cover  the  bulbs.  Fill 
the  bowl  with  water  above  the  lower  ends  of  the  bulbs. 

After  planting,  let  the  bulbs  sleep  five  or  six  weeks.  Put 
them  in  the  dark  part  of  the  cellar  or  set  them  in  a  cool  place 
and  turn  a  box  over  them.  When  the  whole  bottom  of  the 
bowl  is  full  of  roots,  take  the  bowl  out  and  set  it  in  a  warm 
place.  From  this  time  heat  and  moisture  are  very  impor- 
tant.    Light  is  beneficial,  but  sunlight  is  not  necessary. 

Do  not  allow  your  tomatoes  to  set  any  more  fruit. 

[45] 


OCTOBER  —  PLANTING  BULBS   OUTDOORS 


Plant  your  bulbs  in  September  and  October,  so  that  the 
roots  may  get  a  good  start  underground  before  winter  begins. 
Try  first  the  narcissus,  tulip,  hyacinth,  and  crocus. 

Select  a  place  that  has  good  drainage.  Remove  4  or  5 
inches  of  top  soil  and  place  your  bulbs  root  end  downward 
about  5  inches  apart.  It  is  well  to  place  the  bulbs  on  a  half 
inch  of  sand.  Cover  them  with  4  or  5  inches  of  soil.  Cro- 
cus bulbs  are  planted  at  only  half  this  depth. 

As  soon  as  there  is  danger  of  freezing,  cover  the  bed  with 
6  inches  of  leaves,  and  secure  the  leaves,  so  that  they  will 
not  blow  away  (page  47).  Remove  the  mulch  early  in  the 
spring. 

After  their  long  winter's  sleep,  the  plants  from  the  bulbs 
will  burst  out  at  the  first  sign  of  spring  and  will  produce 
the  most  beautiful  flowers. 

Oil  your  tools  or  coat  them  with  vaseline  before  putting  them 
away, 

[46] 


NOVEMBER  —  MULCHING  FOR  WINTER 

Late  in  the  autumn  we  mulch  berries,  bulbs  in  beds,  and 
other  tender  plants,  in  various  ways.  One  of  the  best  ways 
is  to  pile  leaves  4  to  15  inches  high  over  the  beds. 

A  very  good  way  to  protect  rose  bushes  is  to  run  around 
the  bed  a  chicken-wire  fence,  and  fill  this  with  leaves  until 
the  bushes  are  entirely  covered.  Another  way  to  protect 
the  bushes  is  to  bind  straw  about  them. 

In  latitudes  north  of  New  York  City,  it  is  best  to  lay  down 
roses  and  other  tender  bushes  and  vines,  and  cover  them 
with  leaves,  straw,  or  coarse  manure.  In  the  spring  the 
materials  used  for  the  covering  may  be  thrown  on  the  com- 
post pile  or  placed  as  a  mulch  about  the  plants. 

The  object  of  a  mulch  is  not  to  keep  the  plants  from  freez- 
ing, but  to  keep  them  from  thawing  out  during  warm  spells 
in  the  winter  and  starting  their  growth  too  early  in  the 
spring. 

Rake  up  dry  leaves^  but  do  not  burn  them, 

[47] 


DECEMBER  —  TAKING  STOCK 


This  is  a  good  month  to  look  over  your  accounts  for  the 
year.  Add  up  the  expense  items  and  income  items,  and  see 
what  you  have  gained  during  the  year. 

Think  over  plans  for  improving  your  work  next  season. 
Look  over  your  yard  and  see  where  flowers  or  shrubs 
might  be  planted.  If  you  have  space  for  blackberries, 
raspberries,  gooseberries,  currants,  or  grapes,  read  up  on 
these  fruits.  Perhaps  you  would  like  to  start  some  of  them 
in  the  spring.  A  cherry  tree,  peach  tree,  or  plum  tree  can 
easily  be  grown  if  you  have  room  for  it. 

See  that  the  mulch  does  not  blow  off  your  berries,  bulbs, 
or  other  plants.  Examine  your  tools  and  see  if  they  are 
free  from  rust. 

Fasten  a  feeding  shelf  for  birds  in  a  tree,  and  provide  the 
birds  with  food  when  the  snow  is  on  the  ground. 

December  is  a  good  month  for  experiments  with  soils  and 
plants. 

[48] 


V.   Preserving  Vegetables  and  Fruits 


CANNING 

(cold-pack  method) 

You  will  need  a  good  wash  boiler  with  a  false  bottom ; 
several  large  pans,  two  tablespoons,  two  teaspoons,  two 
sharp  paring  knives,  two  hand  towels,  wiping  cloths,  one 
wire  basket  or  five  yards  of  cheesecloth,  and  plenty  of  hot 
and  cold  water.  You  will  need  also  a  can  of  salt  and  as 
many  quart  glass  jars  with  new  rubbers  as  you  propose  to 
fill  with  food. 

Pick  the  vegetables  immediately  before  canning  them 
and  use  only  the  perfect  ones.  Prepare  and  clean  each 
vegetable  whole,  as  you  would  for  table  use. 

Can  only  one  kind  of  food  at  a  time.  Follow  directions 
absolutely;    you  may  lose  your  vegetables  if  you  do  not. 

To  can  beets,  wash  them  clean  and  place  them  in  the  wire 
basket  or  cheesecloth. 

Place  the  clean  glass  jars  upside  down  in  a  pan  of  water 

•  [49] 


and  bring  the  water  to  a  boil.     The  jars  will  then  be  hot 
and  ready  for  use. 

Blanch  or  scald  the  beets  in  boiling  water  for  five  minutes. 
Then  cold-dip  them  by  letting  cold  water  from  the  spigot 
run  over  them.  They  may  be  dipped  in  a  pail  of  cold  water, 
but  do  not  let  them  remain  in  it  any  time. 

Now  pare  the  beets  and  fill  the  jars  to  within  |  inch  of  the 
top.  If  the  beets  are  large,  cut  them  into  halves  or  quar- 
ters. Put  a  level  teaspoonful  of  salt  in  each  jar,  and  fill 
the  jar  with  boiling  water.  Put  a  new  rubber  on  each  jar. 
Then  screw  down  the  screw-top  until  it  just  touches  the 
rubber,  or  clamp  the  clamp-top  at  the  top  of  the  cover,  but 
do  not  bring  down  the  lever. 

Place  each  jar  in  the  false-bottom  rack  in  the  boiler  as  it 
is  filled,  and  see  that  all  jars  are  covered  with  hot  water  to 
at  least  i  inch  above  the  tops  of  the  jars.  Spread  a  towel 
over  the  boiler  and  press  the  cover  on  tightly.  Note  the 
time  of  sterilizing,  from  the  time  the  water  in  the  boiler 
begins  to  boil. 

The  minute  the  time  of  boiling  ("processing '0  is  up, 
lift  the  tray  of  jars  out  and  securely  tighten  the  cover  of 
each  jar.  Then  invert  the  jars  while  they  cool.  If  any 
jar  leaks,  it  must  be  tightened.  Cover  each  jar  with  brown 
paper  and  put  it  away  in  a  dark,  dry,  cool  place  until 
needed. 

In  canning  other  .vegetables  or  fruits,  refer  to  the  table 
on  page  64  for  the  time  required.  A  person  who  has  a 
great  deal  of  canning  to  do  should  buy  one  of  the  com- 
mercial canning  outfits  and  study  the  instructions  that 
come  with  it.  Send  to  the  Superintendent  of  Public 
Documents,  Washington,  D.C.,  for  Farmers'  Bulletin 
No.  839. 

[50]     • 


DRYING 


Drying  food  in  order  to  keep  it  was  almost  a  daily  task  for 
our  grandmothers.     Now  it  has  become  nearly  a  lost  art. 

Fruit  and  vegetables  that  are  to  be  dried  must  be  fresh 
and  in  their  best  condition.  The  skin  should  be  removed 
from  such  vegetables  and  fruits  as  carrots,  squashes,  apples, 
and  pears.  Such  vegetables  as  cabbage,  corn,  or  string 
beans,  or  fruits  like  cherries  or  gooseberries,  are  prepared 
as  for  the  table. 

It  is  best  to  blanch  and  cold-dip  vegetables  (page  50) 
when  this  can  be  done,  but  blanching  and  dipping  before 
drying  are  not  necessary. 

i  Vegetables  and  fruits  should  be  cut  or  sliced  into  pieces 
about  I  inch  in  thickness.  The  pieces  or  slices  should  be  of 
equal  size.  Drying  can  be  done  successfully  by  the  heat 
of  the  sun  or  by  the  heat  of  a  stove. 

A  good  tray  can  be  made  by  nailing  laths  to  two  end- 
boards  of  pine  I  inch  by  9  inches  by  15  inches,  keeping  the 

I51] 


laths  I  inch  apart  for  air  circulation.  It  is  still  better  to 
cover  the  bottom  of  the  tray  with  galvanized  wire-screen 
mesh.     Several  trays  can  be  used  at  a  time. 

Spread  the  prepared  fruit  or  vegetable  in  a  thin  layer  on 
the  tray,  or  on  a  large  plate,  and  set  it  in  the  sun,  on  a  hot 
stove,  or  in  an  oven  with  the  door  open.  In  the  sun  the  food 
will  not  scorch  or  bake,  but  it  must  be  covered  with  cheese- 
cloth if  insects  are  about  and  must  be  brought  indoors  at 
sundown  or  before  a  rain.  On  the  stove,  or  in  the  oven, 
the  food  needs  constant  watching  to  see  that  it  does  not 
burn  or  scorch.  It  should  dry  at  as  even  a  temperature  as 
possible.  Begin  the  drying  at  a  low  temperature  and  grad- 
ually increase  the  heat  if  possible.  This  will  hasten  the 
drying  process.  Frequent  stirring  of  all  drying  foods  is 
necessary,  and  a  thermometer  must  be  used  when  food  is 
dried  by  artificial  heat. 

It  takes  some  practice  to  tell  when  the  food  is  just  dry 
enough  and  not  too  dry.  When  fruit  is  dry  enough,  it  is 
impossible  to  squeeze  water  out  of  a  cut  piece.  It  should 
not  snap  or  crack  when  broken.     It  should  be  leathery. 

Before  dried  foods  are  stored  they  must  be  ^^condi- 
tioned''; that  is,  put  into  open  boxes  and  kept  exposed 
to  the  air  for  three  or  four  days.  Each  day  they  must  be 
stirred  thoroughly  or  poured  from  one  box  to  another.  Any 
pieces  showing  signs  of  dampness  or  mold  should  be  put 
into  the  drier  again.  It  is  very  necessary  that  dried  fruits 
and  vegetables  receive  this  conditioning,  for  without  it  they 
will  not  keep. 

If  you  care  to  buy  a  good  drier  at  a  store,  the  food  can 
be  dried  faster.  Follow  the  printed  instructions  coming 
with  it.  Send  to  the  Superintendent  of  Public  Documents, 
Washington,  D.C.,  for  Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  841. 

[52] 


STORAGE 

As  a  rule,  a  storage  place  for  foods  must  be  dry,  cool,  dark, 
and  well  ventilated. 

Canned  and  dried  goods  should  be  labeled  and  stored  on 
shelves.  Dried  foods  should  be  stored  in  small  containers 
such  as  paper  bags,  pasteboard  boxes,  and  glass  jars.  See 
that  each  container  is  sealed  with  paraffin.  Melt  the 
paraffin  and  use  a  small  brush  to  cover  all  openings. 

The  best  place  to  store  most  vegetables,  such  as  potatoes, 
beets,  carrots,  parsnips,  salsify,  turnips,  cabbage,  celery, 
onions,  and  sweet  potatoes,  is  in  a  part  of  the  cellar  parti- 
tioned off  so  that  it  cannot  be  overheated  by  the  furnace. 
A  small  quantity  of  vegetables  may  be  stored  in  boxes ;  for 
a  larger  quantity  make  wooden  bins  about  6  to  12  inches 
deep  and  30  inches  square,  and  set  them  on  racks  built  with 
shelves^  one  above  the  other. 

The  vegetables  should  be  dry  when  placed  in  the  bins. 
See  that  only  perfect  and  unbruised  vegetables  are  stored. 
The  others  may  be  used  while  fr.esh,  fed  to  animals,'  or 
thrown  on  the  compost  pile.  Handle  stored  vegetables 
and  fruits  as  Uttle  as  possible. 

Sweet  potatoes  and  winter  squash  will  keep  best  in 
baskets  in  the  furnace  room.  Potatoes,  beets,  carrots, 
parsnips,  and  turnips  will  keep  better  if  covered  with  sand 
or  earth  to  prevent  their  drying.  Put  a  thin  layer  of  earth 
or  sand  in  a  box,  and  add  a  layer  of  vegetables.  Then  fill 
the  spaces  between  them  with  earth  or  sand,  add  another 
layer  of  vegetables,  and  continue  until  the  box  is  full. 

Parsnips  should  be  left  to  winter  in  the  ground,  as  freez- 
ing improves  them.  Green  tomatoes  if  not  injured  by 
frost  will  ripen  in  the  cellar. 

[53] 


VI.   Plant  Enemies  and  Friends 


3PRAY-ER. 
PLANT  ENEMIES^ 


PLANT   ENEMIES 

Plants  have  many  insect  enemies.  These  may  be  divided 
into  two  groups :  chewing  insects,  which  eat  the  leaves, 
and  sucking  insects,  which  pierce  the  leaves  or  young  stems 
and  draw  out  the  juices.  Generally  speaking,  the  hard- 
bodied  insect  is  a  chewer  and  the  soft-bodied  insect  a  sucker. 
Most  of  these  destructive  insects  work  above  the  ground, 
but  some,  like  the  cutworm,  wireworm,  and  some  maggots, 
work  underground. 

One  of  the  best  protections  against  insects  and  plant  dis- 
eases is  to  keep  the  plants  in  a  vigorous  growing  condition. 
It  is  also  a  good  plan  to  spade  your  garden  deep  just  before 
the  time  of  frost,  as  many  insects  are  destroyed  by  the  cold 
of  winter  when  this  is  done. 

Most  chewing  insects,  such  as  caterpillars  and  beetles, 
can  be  poisoned  by  arsenate  of  lead  mixed  in  water.  Paris 
green  and  hellebore  are  other  poisons  used.  These  mix- 
tures may  be  put  on  the  plants  with  a  whisk  broom  or, 
better,  with  a  regular  sprayer.  Mix  i  tablespoonful  of 
powdered  lead  arsenate  with  a  gallon  of  water,  i  tea- 
spoonful  of  Paris  green  with  lo  quarts  of  water,  or  a  table- 
spoonful  of  hellebore  with  3  gallons  of  water. 

[54] 


Sucking  insects  like  plant  lice  are  not  destroyed  by 
poisons  applied  to  the  outside  of  the  leaves,  but  must  be 
killed  by  something  sponged  over  the  insects  themselves. 
Nicotine  sulfate,  j  ounce  to  i  gallon  of  water  with  a  little 
soap,  is  one  of  the  best  remedies.  Soap  solution,  made  by 
dissolving  ^  pound  of  soap  in  2  gallons  of  water,  is  often 
used'.  Carbohc  acid  emulsion,  made  by  dissolving  i  pound 
of  soap  in  i  gallon  of  boiling  water  and  adding  i  pint  of 
crude  carbohc  acid,  also  will  destroy  insects.  The  solution 
must  be  mixed  thoroughly.  Strong  tobacco  water  may  be 
used  also. 

For  plant  diseases  like  blight  and  mildew,  buy  a  prepared 
remedy  called  Bordeaux  Mixture  and  spray  the  plants  as 
soon  as  yoii  see  a  diseased  part ;  or  powdered  sulfur  may 
be  dusted  over  them  when  the  leaves  are  damp.  Burn  any 
plant  that  has  been  destroyed  by  plant  disease. 


[55] 


PLANT   FRIENDS 


Birds  are  the  best  friends  that  plants  have,  because  they 
feed  upon  harmful  insects.  Watch  a  wren  or  a  robin  feed 
its  young.  All  day  long  it  passes  back  and  forth,  bringing 
insects  to  their  hungry  mouths, 

The  bird  policeman  is  the  best  of  protectors  for  a  garden, 
and  if  you  attract  and  protect  the  birds  by  making  bird 
houses  for  them,  they  will  pay  their  rent  by  eating  de- 
structive insects. 

For  a  bird  house,  rough  or  weather  beaten  boards  or 
branches  of  trees  may  be  used.  Birds  do  not  mind  houses 
of  rustic  appearance.  In  France,  houses  for  small  birds 
are  made  of  woven  reeds  or  willows,  like  baskets.  Directly 
under  the  entrance  to  the  house  place  a  stick  or  a  shelf  as  a 
perch  to  light  upon. 

The  wren  likes  a  house  with  considerable  space  below  the 
entrance  hole  for  its  bulky  nest.  The  hole  should  be  an 
inch  in  diameter.     Sparrows  sometimes  destroy  the  young 

[56] 


A 

^ 

1||M 

1  ll 

9 

and  eggs  of  small  birds  like  the  wren,  but  they  cannot  enter 
through  a  hole  an  inch  wide. 

The  bluebird  and  the  robin  are  others  of  our  familiar 
bird  friends.  Both  will  nest  in  houses  that  are  properly 
prepared  for  them. 

A  box  for  a  bluebird  is  5  inches  square  and  8  inches  deep, 
and  has  a  hole  i  J  inches  in  diameter  placed  at  a  height  of  6 
inches  above  the  floor.  A  nesting  box  for  a  robin  must  be 
open  on  all  sides.  Use  a  shallow  box  6  by  8  inches,  build 
a  roof  over  it,  and  fasten  it  in  a  tree  where  it  will  be  hidden 
by  the  leaves. 

There  are  other  plant  friends  besides  the  birds. 

The  common  angleworm  is  a  great  improver  of  the  soil, 
as  he  is  continually  moving  it  about  and  opening  holes  for 
drainage. 

Never  kill  a  toad.  To  have  one  make  its  home  in  your 
garden  will  be  a  piece  of  good  fortune  for  you.  Toads  in- 
jure nothing,  and  they  catch  thousands  of  injurious  flies 
and  insects. 

The  ladybug  also  is  an  enemy  of  the  pjant  louse,  and 
therefore  a  plant  friend.  Every  plant  has  its  enemy,  and 
every  plant-destroying  insect  is  the  food  of  some  other 
insect,  bird,  or  other  animal. 


[57] 


Appendix 

QUESTIONS 

1.  What  kind  of  a  place  should  be  selected  for  a  garden? 

2.  Why  is  it  best  to  run  the  rows  east  and  west? 

3.  What  kinds  of  crops  can  be  planted  close  together? 

4.  Name  the  most  important  garden  tools. 

5.  What  kind  of  fertilizer  is  best  for  a  garden  ? 

6.  Why  should  a  garden  be  spaded  deeply  ? 

7.  Give  a  general  rule  for  the  depth  for  planting  seeds. 

8.  Why  should  the  soil  be  packed  about  seeds? 

9.  In  what  two  ways  does  cultivation  help  plants  ? 

10.  When  is  the  best  time  of  day  for  watering? 

11.  How  do  cover  crops  benefit  the  soil ? 

12.  How  long  do  radishes  take  to  grow? 

13.  What  kind  of  lettuce  is  easiest  to  grow? 

14.  Name  the  best  kinds  of  beans  for  beginners. 

15.  Name  the  best  kinds  of  corn  for  beginners. 

16.  How  far  apart  would  you  plant  corn? 

17.  In  what  'two  ways  may  beets  be  used? 

18.  How  far  apart  should  beets  be  left  in  the  row? 

19.  How  far  apart  should  tomatoes  be  placed? 

20.  How  should  they  be  pruned  and  supported  ? 

21.  How  may  the  cabbage  worm  be  destroyed? 

22.  Name  some  vegetables  that  will  grow  where  they    are 

shaded  part  of  the  time. 

23.  Why  is  Swiss  chard  a  good  vegetable  for  a  small  garden? 

24.  How  deep  should  peas  be  planted? 

25.  Where  should  sweet  alyssum  be  planted? 

26.  Why  should  flowers  be  kept  closely  picked  ? 

27.  Why  is  the  nasturtium  a  good  flower  to  plant? 

28.  Where  may  marigolds  be  planted? 

29.  What  does  the  California  poppy  need  to  flourish? 

[58] 


30.  How  should  cosmos  plants  be  started? 

31.  Tell  how  pansies  may  be  grown. 

32.  Describe  a  seed  test. 

33.  Can  you  think  of  another  way  of  testing  seeds? 

34.  Tell  how  you  would  make  a  flat. 

35.  How  could  you  water  a  flat  without  washing  the  soil? 

36.  How  is  a  hot  bed  made  and  heated? 

37.  How  is  a  cold  frame  made? 
^S.  Name  the  parts  of  a  flower. 

39.  What  is  the  use  of  each  part  ? 

40.  Why  does  a  plant  have  flowers? 

41 .  How  may  beans  be  supported  ? 

42.  How  may  peas  be  supported? 

43.  Explain  what  is  meant  by  succession  cropping. 

44.  Name  some  crops  that  may  be  raised  as  succession  crops. 

45.  Explain  what  is  meant  by  companion  cropping. 

46.  Name  some  crops  that  may  be  raised  as  companion  crops. 

47.  Why  is  a  mulch  used  on  strawberry  beds? 

48.  What  plant  can  be  most  easily  grown  in  water? 

49.  Explain  how  you  would  raise  bulbs  in  water. 

50.  Explain  how  you  would  plant  bulbs  outdoors. 

51.  How  may  plants  be  protected  through  the  winter? 

52.  What  is  the  purpose  of  the  covering? 

53.  What  profit  did  you  receive  from  your  garden  last  year? 

54.  What  plans  have  you  for  improving  it  next  year? 

55.  Explain  the  cold-pack  method  of  canning. 

56.  Explain  how  fruits  and  vegetables  may  be  dried. 

57.  How  may  sweet  potatoes  and  squashes  be  stored  in  winter? 

58.  How  may  vegetables  like  beets  and  carrots  be  stored? 

59.  How  can  chewing  insects  be  destroyed? 

60.  How  can  sucking  insects  be  destroyed? 

61.  How  can  plant  mildews  be  destroyed? 

62.  Why  is  it  desirable  to  attract  birds? 

63.  Why  is  a  toad  useful  in  a  garden? 

[59] 


[60] 


[6i] 


Planting  Table  of  Common  Garden  Vegetables 


Vegetable 


Asparagus  .  , 

Beans,  bush  .  . 

Beans,  lima  .  . 

Beets     .     .  .  . 
Brussels  sprouts 

Cabbage     .  .  . 

Carrots       .  .  . 

Cauliflower  .  . 

Celery    .     .  .  . 

Corn,  pop  .  .  , 

Corn,  sweet  .  , 

Cucumber  .  . 

Egg  plant  .  .  . 

Kale       .     .  .  . 

Kohl-rabi  .  .  . 


Lettuce 
Melon,  musk 
Okra      .     . 
Onions  .     . 
Parsley 


Parsnips  .  . 

Peas       .  .  . 

Peppers  .  . 

Potatoes  .  . 

Pumpkin  .  . 

Radish  .  .  . 

Salsify   .  .  . 

Spinach  .  . 

Squash  .  .  . 
Sweet  potatoes 

Swiss  chard  . 

Tomato  .  . 

Turnip  .  .  . 


Average 
Planting 
Depth  in 

Inches 


Average  Growing 
Space  in  Inches 


3 
5 
6 

4 
i8 

i8 
3 


lO 
24 
24 
12 

9 
6 

12 

24 

3 
4 

3 
3 

12 
12 
lO 


4 

6 

lO 
12 

4 

24 

3 


Between 
Rows 


24 
24 

30 
15 
24 

24 

12 
24 
24 
30 

24 
36 
24 
24 
12 

12 
30 
36 
12 
12 


12 
12 
12 

30 
24 

20 
30 
12 


Average 
Days  to 
Come  Up 


25 
14 
14 
12 
6 

10 
14 


12 

16 

II 

6 

5 

8 

14 
20 
10 
15 


18 

14 

12 

10 

14 

30 

30 

20 

30 

II 

12 
12 

4 


Average 
Time  to 
Mature 


3  years 

6  weeks 

10  weeks 

10  weeks 

20  weeks 

20  weeks 
12  weeks 
20  weeks 
20  weeks- 
30  weeks 

14  weeks 
10  weeks 
17  weeks 
10  weeks 
12  weeks 

8  weeks 

15  weeks 
12  weeks 
20  weeks 

14  weeks 

20  weeks 
10  weeks 
20  weeks 

15  weeks 
20  weeks 

6  weeks 
20  weeks 

7  weeks 
12  weeks 
20  weeks 

8  weeks 
20  weeks 
10  weeks 


[62] 


Planting  Table  of  Common  Flowering  Plants 


Name  of  Plant 


Ageratum 
Aster   .     .     . 
Calendula  or  Pot  man 

gold  .  . 
Candytuft  . 
Carnation     . 

Castor  bean 
Coreopsis 
Cornflower    . 
Cosmos    .     . 
Forget-me-not 


Hollyhocks 
Larkspur 
Lobelia     . 
Marigold 
Mignonette 


Morning-glory 
Petunia    .     . 
Phlox  .     .     . 
Pink     .     .     . 
Poppy      .     . 

Portulaca 
Salvia  .     .     . 
Snapdragon  . 
Stocks      .     . 
Sunflower 

Sweet  alyssum 
Sweet  peas    . 
Sweet  William 
Verbena   .     . 
Zinnia       .     . 


Average 

Average 

Average 

Planting 

Distance 

Height 

Depth  in 

Apart  in 

in 

Inches 

Inches 

Inches 

i 

6 

lO 

1 

4 

9 

20 

i 

12 

20 

i 

6 

12 

1 
4 

14 

12 

I 

6o 

76 

J 

15 

18 

i 

12 

12 

i 

24 

50 

i 

6 

6 

i 

IS 

60 

1 
4 

i8 

30 

i 

4 

8 

i 

lO 

24 

i 

6 

12 

i 

12 

120 

i 

8 

18 

1 

4 

6 

15 

i 

12 

9 

i 

8 

24 

1 
4 

4 

10 

i 

i8 

30 

i 

i8 

15 

i 

lO 

18 

i 

25 

120 

i 

5 

10 

2 

5 

70 

i 

lO 

60 

i 

6 

12 

i 

lO 

24 

Colors  Most  Common 
IN  Flowers 


Blue  and  white 
Blue 

Orange 
White 
Red  or  pink 

(Grown  for  foliage) 

Yellow  and  brown 

Blue 

White 

Blue 

Pink,  white,  crimson 

Deep  blue 

Blue 

Yellow 

Red-brown  and  green 

Blue,  red,  and  white 
Pink,  red,  white 
Red,  white,  rose 
Pink  and  white 
Scarlet 

Crimson,  white 

Scarlet 

Red,  yellow,  white 

Red  or  white 

Yellow 

White 

Pink,  white,  purple 

Crimson,  pink,  white 

Red,  pink,  white 

Magenta 


[63] 


Canning  and  Drying  Table 


Blanching  Time 

Steriliz- 
ing Time 

Drying 
Time 

Temperature 

(Minutes) 

(Minutes) 

(Hours) 

(Fahrenheit) 

Vegetables 

Vegetable  greens     .     .     . 

15  to  20 

120 

Cabbage     

15  to  20 

120 

3  to  4 

110°  1 

to  145° 

Cauliflower 

15  to  20 

120 

3  to  4 

110°  1 

Lo  145° 

Brussels  sprouts       .     .     . 

15  to  20 

120 

3  to  4 

110°  1 

to  145° 

Carrots 

5  to  8 

90 

2  to  3 

110°  \ 

to  150° 

Parsnips 

5  to  8 

90 

2  to  3 

110°  1 

.0  150° 

Beets 

3  to  8 

90 

2  to  3 

110°  1 

-0  150° 

Turnips 

5  to  8 

90 

2  to  3 

no''  1 

.0  150° 

Sweet  potatoes    .... 

5  to  8 

QO 

2  to  3 

110°  1 

.0  150° 

Tomatoes 

To  loosen  skin 

22 

2  to  3 

110°  1 

-0  150° 

Corn  (on  cob  or  off)     .     . 

5  to  15 

180 

3  to  4 

110°  t 

^0  150° 

Lima  beans 

2  to  5 

120 

3  to  4 

110°  1 

-0  145° 

String  beans 

2  to  5 

120 

3  to  4 

110°  1 

,0  145° 

Peas 

2  to  5 

120 

3  to  4 

110°  t 

-0  145° 

Okra 

2  to  5 

120 

2  to  3 

110°  t 

,0  145° 

Pumpkin  (for  pie)    .     .     . 

Cook  30  minutes 

90 

3  to  4 

110°  1 

.0  140° 

Squash  (for  pie)       .     .     . 

Cook  30  minutes 

90 

3  to  4 

110°  1 

,0  140° 

Pumpkin  or  squash  cubes 

10 

90 

3  to  4 

110°  1 

,0  140° 

Fruits 

Strawberries 

None 

16 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

,0  150° 

Blackberries  . 

None 

16 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

-0  150° 

Dewberries     . 

None 

16 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

-0  150° 

Sweet  cherries 

None 

16 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

-0  150° 

Blueberries     . 

None 

16 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

,0  150° 

Peaches      .     . 

None 

16 

4  to  6 

110°  t 

.0  150° 

Apricots     .     . 

None 

16 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

-0  150° 

Currants    .     . 

None 

16 

4  to  6 

110°  t 

0  150° 

Gooseberries  . 

None 

16 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

,0  150° 

Cranberries    . 

None 

16 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

0  150° 

Sour  cherries 

None 

16 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

.0  150° 

Apples  .     .     . 

i4 

20 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

,0  150° 

Pears     .     .     . 

ih 

20 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

-0  150° 

Quinces      .     . 

li 

20 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

,0  150° 

Oranges  (whole) 

i| 

12 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

,0  150° 

Oranges  (sliced) 

None 

10 

4  to  6 

110°  1 

,0  150° 

The  above  table  gives  the  blanching  and  sterilizing  times  for  different 
vegetables  and  fruits  when  they  are  canned  by  the  cold-pack  method 
(page  49),  and  the  average  drying  times  and  the  right  temperatures  when 
they  are  dried  by  artificial  heat.  Fruits  are  not  blanched  before  drying. 
Vegetables  may  be  blanched  the  same  length  of  time  for  drying  as  for  canning. 

[64] 


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Richmond,  CA  94804-4698 

ALL  BOOKS  MAY  BE  RECALLED  AFTER  7  DAYS 
2-month  loans  may  be  renewed  by  calling 

(415)642-6233 
1-year  loans  may  be  recharged  by  bringing  books 

to  NRLF 
Renewals  and  recharges  may  be  made  4  days 

prior  to  due  date 

DUE  AS  STAMPED  BELOW 


i^RLF  DUE  JUL    1198a 


SEP  12  1989 


Santa  Crtz  Jitney 


